Europe
Trebinje is a sun-drenched riverside town in the southern tip of Bosnia & Herzegovina, just half an hour inland from Dubrovnik. With Ottoman-era stone bridges, a charming walled old town, surrounding vineyards, and the emerald-green Trebišnjica river running through the center, it's one of the most underrated stops in the Balkans.
Trebinje, Bosnia & Herzegovina — captured during my visit.
Things to Do
Wander the small but atmospheric Old Town, lined with plane trees, cafes, and the daily market on Trg Slobode square. Cross the 16th-century Arslanagić (Perovića) bridge, an Ottoman stone arch relocated stone by stone after a dam was built. Drive up to Hercegovačka Gračanica monastery on Crkvina Hill for panoramic views over the valley. Spend an afternoon visiting one of the family-run wineries in the surrounding Popovo Polje region — Trebinje sits in one of the oldest wine-growing areas in the Balkans and produces excellent Žilavka and Vranac.
Best Time to Visit
May, June, September, and early October are perfect — warm but not the scorching summer heat that can hit Herzegovina in July and August. Spring brings green hills and wildflowers; September is ideal for combining beach time on the coast with wine harvest season inland.
Where to Stay
Trebinje is small, so staying in or near the Old Town puts you within walking distance of everything.
Budget: Hotel Platani, a charming family-run hotel directly on the main square under the plane trees, with simple comfortable rooms and one of the best terrace restaurants in town.
Mid-range: Hotel Leotar, a well-located riverside property with modern rooms, a pool, and easy walking access to the Old Town across the bridge.
Luxury: Hotel Integra, a sleek contemporary hotel just outside the center with a spa, rooftop terrace, and excellent service — the most polished stay in town.
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Getting Around
Trebinje is a 30-40 minute drive from Dubrovnik (Croatia), making it one of the easiest day trips or overnight escapes from the Dalmatian coast — many visitors rent a car or join a small group tour from Dubrovnik. The town itself is fully walkable. To reach the surrounding monasteries and wineries you'll want a car, or arrange a local driver/wine tour through your hotel.
I arrived a more roundabout way. I had an Albanian rental car, and the rental company said under no circumstances could I drive it into Bosnia. The workaround: we drove to the Sitnica border crossing in Montenegro, parked the car on the Montenegro side, and arranged a taxi to meet us and take us across to Trebinje. We got a few odd stares from the border guards as we walked through passport control on foot.
Hidden Gems
Time your visit for late afternoon to catch the daily ritual of older locals gathering under the plane trees on the main square for coffee and conversation — it's the soul of the town. Visit Tvrdoš Monastery just outside the city, where Orthodox monks still produce wine in cellars dating back to the 4th century, and taste straight from the barrel. Also worth seeking out: a sunset glass of local rosé at one of the small wine bars along the river — Vinoteka Vukoje and the riverside terraces are perfect.
