South Asia
One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, Varanasi sits on the western bank of the Ganges where pilgrims, sadhus, and travellers gather at dawn to bathe in the river and at dusk to watch the Ganga Aarti light up the ghats. The lanes of the old city are a labyrinth of temples, chai stalls, silk weavers, and funeral processions, confronting, beautiful, and unlike anywhere else in India.
Things to Do
Take a sunrise rowboat along the ghats as the city wakes up; witness the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat after sunset; lose yourself in the lanes of the old city around Vishwanath Temple; visit the cremation grounds at Manikarnika Ghat with respect; take a half-day trip to Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon.
Best Time to Visit
October to March, when the weather is cool and dry. Avoid the peak monsoon (July–September) when the Ganges floods and many ghats are submerged. The festival of Dev Deepawali (November) is unforgettable but draws huge crowds.
Where to Stay
BrijRama Palace on Darbhanga Ghat is the standout heritage stay, with a private boat from the river. For something more affordable, Guleria Kothi and Rashmi Guest House both have rooms overlooking the ghats. Stay on the river side of the old city, it is worth being able to walk straight onto a ghat at dawn.
Budget: Zostel Varanasi, reliable hostel a few minutes from Assi Ghat, with a rooftop café overlooking the lanes.
Mid-range: Hotel Ganges Grand, comfortable mid-range in the Cantonment area, an easy auto ride from the ghats.
Luxury: BrijRama Palace, 18th-century palace directly on Darbhanga Ghat, the only true luxury hotel on the river itself.
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Getting Around
The old city is a pedestrian-only maze; expect to walk a lot and to get lost. Auto-rickshaws and cycle-rickshaws cover longer distances and the trip to Sarnath. A pre-dawn boat is the single best way to see the city, agree on a price (around ₹500–800 per hour for a small boat) before stepping in.
Hidden Gems
Walk the ghats from south to north at first light, well past the touristy stretch around Dashashwamedh, Assi Ghat is calmer and great for yoga at sunrise. Blue Lassi in the old city has been serving clay-cup lassi from the same shopfront for nearly a century. For music, ask about an evening classical concert at the International Music Ashram.
