Europe
Ksamil is a small coastal village on the Albanian Riviera famous for its turquoise water, white sand beaches, and a string of tiny offshore islands you can swim or paddle to. Just minutes from the Greek island of Corfu and the ancient ruins of Butrint, it has quickly become one of the most talked-about beach destinations in Europe.
Things to Do
Spend your days hopping between Ksamil's four main beaches, each with crystal-clear shallow water and sun loungers for rent. Swim or kayak out to the Ksamil Islands, three small uninhabited islets just offshore. Visit the UNESCO-listed ruins of Butrint, a remarkable layered archaeological site spanning Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian eras, set in a lagoon-side national park just south of town. Take a half-day trip up to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), a mesmerizing natural spring with impossibly blue water. South of the village, Pema e Thatë is a beach club reached by a rough road through Butrint National Park (or by boat), known for its over-water net cabanas, a DJ scene, and views across to Corfu. Nearby, the tiny southern cove of Puerto Rico Beach is worth it for those same over-water net loungers more than for the food. For a break from the beaches, head up to Lekuresi Castle, which has some of the best views in the area, looking out over Saranda with Corfu visible across the water. On the way up, Natyra Restaurant pairs sweeping valley views with excellent food.
Recommended Experiences
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Best Time to Visit
Late May, June, and September are the sweet spot: warm sea, sunny days, and far fewer crowds than peak July and August, when Ksamil gets very busy with European holidaymakers. October still has swimmable water but quieter beaches. Winter is largely shut down. One honest warning about August: come then and it will be crowded, full stop, with packed sunbeds and every cove busy. Set your expectations accordingly, or stick to the shoulder season.
Where to Stay
Most accommodation in Ksamil is family-run guesthouses and small hotels within a 5-10 minute walk of the beaches. Book early for summer.
Budget: Guest House Brari, a friendly, well-reviewed family-run guesthouse with clean rooms, a balcony, and excellent value just a short walk from the beach.
Mid-range: Bloom Ksamil Hotel, a modern boutique hotel with a rooftop pool, sea views, and stylish rooms, one of the best mid-range bases in town.
Luxury: Maritim Hotel Plaza Ksamil, a beachfront property with direct access to the sand, multiple pools, and full resort amenities.
These are affiliate links — booking through them supports Viator Modus at no extra cost to you. Same room, same price, it just helps keep the guides coming.
Getting There
I flew into Corfu (CFU) in Greece and took the ferry across to Saranda, with Ksamil sitting just south of there. One thing to plan for on that route: Albania is not in the EU or the Schengen Area. It is an EU candidate country with accession negotiations underway, though membership is not expected before the late 2020s at the earliest. In practice that means crossing from Corfu involves clearing Albanian passport control on arrival, so keep your passport handy when the ferry lands in Saranda.
Getting Around
Most travelers arrive via the small city of Saranda, 20 minutes north, which connects by ferry to Corfu (Greece) and by bus to Tirana. From Saranda, frequent local minibuses (furgons) run to Ksamil for a couple of euros. Renting a car is the best way to explore the wider Albanian Riviera and reach Butrint and the Blue Eye on your own schedule. The village itself is walkable. If you want more than beach time, consider basing yourself up in Saranda rather than Ksamil (it has far more dining, nightlife, and general buzz) and riding a scooter the 20 minutes down to the beaches each day. Either way, walk Saranda's seafront promenade after dark, when the whole town spills outside and the waterfront lights up.
Hidden Gems
Skip the main beach strip at peak hours and walk south toward the Butrint National Park boundary, where you'll find quieter coves and pine-shaded shoreline. For dinner, head inland a few minutes to find family-run taverns serving fresh-caught fish and Albanian wine at a fraction of the beach prices. Also worth doing: take the small boat across the lagoon at Butrint, a 30-second ride on a hand-pulled cable ferry that locals have been using for centuries.
The Bunkers
More than 170,000 concrete bunkers are scattered across Albania, from beaches to mountain passes and even in front of apartment blocks. They were built between roughly 1967 and 1986 under communist dictator Enver Hoxha, part of a national bunkerization program (bunkerizimi).
The driver was paranoia. Hoxha had broken with both the Soviet Union and Mao's China, leaving Albania one of the most isolated countries in Europe and earning it the nickname "the North Korea of Europe." He was convinced an invasion was coming from NATO, the USSR, or Yugoslavia, and the idea was that in such an attack the entire population could fight from these positions. The invasion never came. Today many of the bunkers have been repurposed into cafes, bars, and museums.
